We researched-and in some cases, tested-the top pruners available online, evaluating them for durability, sharpness, effectiveness, overall value, and comfort. The better-quality pruners let you replace the blades and springs.” Also, after significant use, pruning blades become dull. He adds, “A good pruner’s blades should be sharp and made of quality steel, and the pruners should be easy to use without creating excessive hand or arm fatigue. If you are cutting large branches, then lopping shears, not pruners, are the right choice.” Anvil-type pruning shears are popular for trimming off dead twigs, branches, and limbs. “Hand pruners with bypass, scissor-like cutting action are best used on live plants with small twigs, stems, flowers, and shoots. Director of Technical Operations at TruGreen, says the most important thing to consider when choosing a pruner is the type of plant material it will be used on. Used for trimming greenery and thin stems or branches, pruners are suited to cutting through plant material that's no more than an inch or so in thickness and are generally worked with just one hand, unlike garden loppers or hedge shears, which require the use of both hands and cut through much larger plant materials.īrian Feldman, Sr. Whether you call them pruners, hand shears, pruning shears, or secateurs (the French term often used for these gardening tools), a good pruner is a must-have addition to your collection of gardening tools. The Spruce Home Improvement Review Board.This is what I plan to do when I eventually have an small post anvil from Old World Anvils. You can also put a short bolt through the base to doubly hold it on by threading the anvil on that.Īlternatively, you can build a post from stacked pieces of 2x2, with a cross to make the base hold it down by standing on the cross when you hammer. That way you can just clamp it quickly to a workspace, then take it off when you don't need it. Thick piece of 12x12" or something like that. I suggest U-bolts mainly because I feel like they'd give a little extra security if you'd rather just use four bolts, go for it.Īnd I'd bolt the anvil to a board, actually, rather than a post or anything. You could cold hammer the U-bolts into shape, but that way lies stress fractures in the future. If you have a torch (Home Depot has a cheap propane set with solder, flux, and nozzle for only $20, btw), anneal the bolts, bend them so that when they lay against the anvil they'll be more or less flush, and re-temper them. I say bolts, but with a twist: measure the width of that base and get some large U-bolts from the hardware store. Maybe look into adding a bolt to a wood base, and then mounting said base to the edge of your work table via clamps or more bolts? Or something almost like the cutting stand you made, but with flatened/slotted area for you to press your feet and stabilize it with? I'd personally avoid the bucket of concrete. Cast iron can and does make durable things, they just have to be for the right purpose. You'd have to use a 20 pound sledge to damage it at that rate. If it's done how i've seen it done, you'll usually get less than 10" away for the 'big' swings in your process. While it wouldn't work for blacksmithing, you dont have even close to approaching the amount of force you would here as you do in smithing. I've seen them use at a professional jewlers shop, so I think you're ok to use them as well. If it's for the smaller things you and I have talked about (not sure if you want them mentioned) than even a small cast iron one will work. Sam would be right if that were for forging. I am not sure of what kind of arm extension I need to be considerate of as again it's not about using a heavy hammer. Of course I also want to do more to hold it down- maybe more bolts on the sides as it's shaped for this. Maybe a piece of leather between the conrete and anvil. I am considering filling a bucket with concrete and setting a bolt pointing up out of the concrete for the anvil to be screwed down to. Striking work on it is not a matter of needing to impart a great deal of force- it's for smaller/finer work. I figure I will likely be sitting at my stool when working on it as I expect to be doing small work and often will be getting my eyes quite close to the work to study it (as we did back in school), but I can mount it anyway that is most effective for use. It will be kept in my garage/workshop but I'd like to be able to move it (even if not easily- so long as it is possible). I have looked up various instructions on mounting anvils but they are for large/full size anvils. It has a threaded bolt hole in the center of the base.Īny advice or suggestions on the most effective way to mount this would be helpful. I bought a small anvil (what I know as a jewellers anvil). First off- I'm posting here because this is the spot where I can find answers from guys who know about anvils.
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